Razzeldots Bengals

                                   

 

 Congratulations on your beautiful, new friend!

Initial Housing

Bringing home a new kitten is a stressful time for your new pet.  These are some "tips" to get you both through these important first few days. When you first get your kitten/cat home he/she will probably be frightened at being in a new place.  After all your kitten has just left all of his brothers and sister's and the only home your kitten has known where everything is in its proper place for his eyes.   Don't bring your kitten home and expect him to find his/her litter box, food, ect.  Put your kitten in ONE room with the door closed.  Kittens need a safe place where they have their bed, food, water and a litter box.  This is a great place to put your cat when guests are over and there is risk of doors being left open, etc.  A bedroom or even a bathroom with a litter box and food/water dishes so that your kitten can acclimate to a new situation and know where the litter box and food dishes are.   Do not place food and water dished close to the litter box.  Your kitten will not use his box if the food is too close. A safe distance would be about 4 or 5 feet away.  It is a good idea to play with your new kitten so he/she can get to know you and feel comfortable and safe. 

When you let your kitten out in the rest of the house remember to have the litter box out where he knows where it is at all times at least until he knows his new home well.  Just make sure it is safe and secure!  Get down on the floor and be at the kittens level.  Do not let your kid's race around with your kitten.  He may be skittish and scared right now.  Let him adjust to his new home before you try anything.  If he meows a lot, just like when a baby would cry, check that he knows where the litter box is, and is not hungry or thirsty. 

                                                                        Things to remember

First of all, don't change the diet.  Your kitten is eating ROYAL CANIN KITTEN.  Dry food is free fed and kept available at all times. I also feed them ROYAL CANIN KITTEN mixed with water to soften it up.  The mix is 1:1.  DO NOT CHANGE THE FOOD some foods can make your kitten vomit.  It is an allergic reaction to something in the new food.  Keep your kitten on the foods he is use to if you want your kitten to live a long healthy life.  Feed him or her good food and not cheap grocery store brands. If your kitten gets "the Runs" cut out any canned food until after his loose stool has disappeared.  Another fix for loose stools, believe it or not is TENDER VITTLES or Iams hair ball!   SHE LOVES GERBER TURKEY BABY FOOD.

Your kitten/cat will have received at least one vaccination for FVRCP. Only 2 vaccinations are required.  You will be given a heath record with your kittens current shots and worming information.  You should take this health record with you on your visit to your vets office.  You should give the second vaccination four weeks after the date of the first one. The vaccination dates will be on your health record.

Discuss with your veterinarian whether you want to vaccinate for feline leukemia. If you kitten is only in the house, these vaccinations may be unnecessary. However, if you need to board your cat out, or go for walks on a leash, or contact any other cats, these vaccinations would be a necessary precaution. We have seen 3 or 4 very negative reactions to the leukemia shots in Bengals.  What happens is that the kittens almost always develop a lump at the site of the injection, and over a few weeks it almost always goes away. Sometimes it doesn't go away, and it gets hot and grows and swells and you have a major problem on your hands that requires surgery to resolve.  This is called an "Injection Site Sarcoma". With surgery there is almost always a good result, but why take the chance?  If you and your vet feels you must vaccinate, then do it beneath the skin on one if the kitten's legs, up around the thigh. Do a different side than the one used for Rabies. If a problem develops, it's much easier to treat there than up between the shoulder blades. 

This kitten has not been vaccinated for rabies. If a cat is indoors only, rabies vaccination may not be necessary. However, it may be required if you ever need to board your cat. Some states require rabies vaccination of all cats.

                                                                                  Nail Care

I never recommend de-clawing.  Most people do not realize that it mutilates the bones in the cat's foot, by clipping the bone, not the nail. There can be unforeseen behavioral problems in cats that are de-clawed.  Most cats can be trained with the word "no," or slapping a newspaper against your hand, or even a spray bottle of plain water when you want to teach them a certain behavior.   Trimming your cat's nails will reduce the amount of damage caused by scratching before and after training begins.   I have found it very easy to trim their nails when they are napping.  If you are gentle, they won’t even know you are doing it.  Their claws have been trimmed approximately once a week.  You can trim them when they become sharp (you’ll know).  They don’t grow as fast once they are older and once a month is sufficient as an adult.

                                                                     Nail Trimming Instructions

Before trimming, get your cat used to having his paws handled and squeezed.  Begin by gently petting the cat's legs and paws while giving it a treat, making this a pleasant experience.  Gradually increase the pressure so that petting becomes squeezing, as you will need to do to extend the claw.  Continue with treats until your cat will tolerate this kind of touching and restraint.  This may take longer with cats that have rarely had their legs or paws handled.

You can purchase nail trimers at Wal-mart. I use a regular pair of human nail clippers.  When your cat is relaxed and unafraid, gently press on the toes until the claws extend. Use the nail clippers and cut only the tip of the nail (white part), taking care not to damage the vein or the quick (pink part).  The nails can be trimmed weekly, keeping the trimmer perpendicular to the claw as not to crush the nail.  If you are hesitant to cut your cat's nails, consult your vet who will clip them for you and show you how to do it at home.  It is sometimes easier to have one person hold the cat while the other clips the claws.  When they are kittens the nails need trimming more often (weekly) than when they are adults (monthly).   

Bengals love to climb and they love high places.  Make sure you have some sort of cat scratching/climbing furniture.  This web site has some very good furniture at reasonable prices: http://www.petzones.com .   

 Cat Litter

I always start the kittens with regular old clay litter.  When they are just learning to use the litter box they will eat the litter.  Clay litter won't hurt them like the ones with the odor crystals will.  When they get a little older you can switch to tidy cat or the brand of your choice.  I use the one from Wal-mart with the red lid.   You may consider a covered box to keep the litter contained in the litter box as Bengals love to dig in the litter. 

Indoor/Outdoor

Do not let your cat roam loose outside. The average cat lifespan is 16years.  The average lifespan of a cat that goes outside is THREE YEARS.  Get the idea? Your kitten can and will get stolen, hit by a car or come in contact with diseased cats. If they stay in the house all the time, they will not ask to go outside.  If you do want to let them out, do so only under supervision.  This means train them to use a halter and leash. Contrary to popular opinion, they do not need to go outside to play and hunt.  Just play with them indoors.  They do like to munch on grass.  You can buy Kitty grass at pet stores. 

Cautions

Bengals are also very curious.  Please be very careful when getting something out of the refrigerator, or when opening a dryer, dish-washer, drawers, closets, etc.  Your kitten will most likely try to go into whatever you have open.  Be very careful not to lock them inside the refrigerator, or the dryer, or catch their paw in a drawer. 

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You may find that they will climb up your leg to your shoulder when young, especially at feeding time.  If their nails are kept trimmed, they will not be able to do that.   

Be cautious of your toes.  Toes can be fun to attack under blankets and fun to bite.  Be careful.  

Watch out for rubber bands, toys with tinsel, or small objects that could be ingested.  Bengals are curious and get "into things". You will learn how much "child-proofing" you might need to do with your drawers and cupboards.

 

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Look Here!  WHY CLAWS ARE IMPORTANT TO CATS Look Here!

The feline is one of the most graceful, well-designed creatures on this Earth. A cat spends about one third of its time when it is awake grooming itself. The claws are a very important part of this function, and used extensively to help keep the cat's fur smooth and clean. This is not just for "good looks" -- grooming is the way a cat controls body temperature and the affects of outside temperatures; grooming also controls the scent signals used by the feline body; grooming is important for cleanliness, health, and for waterproofing the cat's body. The licking and scratching that a cat does while grooming itself or in social grooming combs out tangles in the fur, and removes skin irritations and dead skin and hair. There is no way a cat can use its teeth effectively to reach the important areas of the neck, head and mouth for grooming, and teeth are not nearly as efficient in keeping the other parts of the body in perfect condition.

Claws also help the feline to climb, which is part of the instinctive nature in almost all cats. While some cats can learn to climb without their claws, they will never experience the same joy and confidence in that exercise without the exactness and pinpoint contact of the tips of their claws on climbing surfaces. The act of scratching itself is often a form of greeting by felines, and provides a source of psychological comfort through its rhythmic action. In addition, scratching is a source of reassurance to the cat of its ability to defend itself or to choose not to defend itself, which can be witnessed by watching the cat contract its claws and "knead" its owner with contentment and trust.

Without claws, a cat will not be able to defend itself, nor will it be able to hunt. Without claws, should a cat ever get out from the safety of its home, or the owner suddenly be unable to take care of the cat for whatever reason, the cat will no doubt perish from starvation, as it will no longer be able to take care of itself and provide itself with foo

Look Here!  THE DECLAW SURGERY PROCEDURE Look Here!

"Onychectomy", which is considered the most common method of declaw surgery, is the actual amputation of the claw AND THE COMPLETE END TOE BONE JOINT. In most cases, the cat will be in pain for a week or even more, and this surgery can indeed cause postoperative complications. These complications can include hemorrhage, infection, and even nail re-growth after a period of time - often this re-growth is extremely painful, and can be extremely difficult to correct. Unfortunately, the majority of American veterinarians will often perform this surgery simply at the request of the cat's owners, without finding out the underlying reasons for the request. Also, many cat owners subject their felines to this surgery mistakenly thinking it is a much simpler, less painful procedure that it truly is. Declawing is not permitted in some countries, such as Great Britain, except for serious medical reasons.

While laser surgery has been used for some years now in human medicine, it is just starting to catch on in veterinary medicine. There are some veterinary clinics that currently use a laser for all their declaw surgeries and they are reporting very positive advancements in the procedure itself and the lessening of adverse post-procedure side effects. The cats go home in significantly less pain than they would have after having had traditional surgery, they heal faster, and are up and walking 90% of the time without bandages in 3-4 hours, or as soon as their anesthesia wears off. This is certainly an important point to consider if there are absolutely no other viable alternatives to having the declaw surgery itself performed.

Look Here!  THE TENDONECTOMY SURGERY PROCEDURE Look Here!

As an alternative to the traditional declaw surgery, there is another surgical procedure known as "Deep Digital Flexor Tendonectomy", which was first described in 1986 by John Rife, DVM (Journal AAHA, Nov. 1986). This procedure involves the severing of the tendon attached to the end toe digit, but maintaining the claw in its sheath. After the surgery, the cat will still have its claws, but will not be able to extend them. The technique is not detectable visually, and does limit the cat's ability to damage surfaces when scratching. (Of course, since the cats still have their claws, the claws need to be trimmed.) This surgery is less painful than the traditional method, and the recovery is quicker - 2 days or less, vs. 7 days or more - and the post-operative risks are minimal. This surgery has not been as favored by many veterinarians because they are concerned about their client satisfaction. In reality, most clients would really appreciate knowing about an alternative that was less painful for their cat, less traumatic and less risky, and would not mind the claw trimming time and efforts needed on their parts to make this alternative a success. There is a risk of in-growth of claws into the paw pads (if they are not kept trimmed), and some veterinarians who have performed this surgery have reported joint fusion and arthritis in some of their patients.

Look Here!  POSSIBLE CONSEQUENCES OF DECLAWING Look Here!

Changes in behavior are not uncommon in declawed cats; however, some cats seem to do fairly well when they have completely recovered from their surgery. It is impossible to predict what will happen physically and emotionally to cats after they undergo this procedure. Some declawed cats will resort to biting behavior when confronted with even very minor perceived stress or threats. This behavior is the overcompensation for the cat's insecurity about not having any claws. Sometimes, a cat's sense of balance is affected by not being able to grasp and measure objects with their claws. Chronic physical problems such as cystitis and skin disorders can all be the results of a declawed cat's sense of frustration and high degree of stress. Remember, too, that it IS possible for serious infections to occur, and for the claws to even grow back, often in a deformed and difficult-to-tre

Look Here!  ALTERNATIVES TO DECLAW SURGERY Look Here!

You do not have to share your home with a kitty who continuously scratches and destroys your home, furnishings and belongings. Most felines can be trained quite easily to use a tall, sturdy and heavy piece of cat furniture for their scratching needs. Placement of this furniture is critical, and best success is achieved by understanding why the cat scratches in the first place, and making sure the cat furniture is placed correctly to meet those needs. For additional information, we have an article about Teaching Your Cat To Use A Scratching Post. We also offer a complete Feline Furniture section, with Secure Server and on-line ordering system, to showcase all the various types of cat furniture that is available, and customizable for your own unique home decor needs.
We have found that by using leather, vinyl or combination leather/vinyl furnishings in our main living areas, our cats have little or no desire at all to scratch our furniture. The type of fabric to avoid is the loosely woven fabrics for living room couches and chairs, as cats love to get their claws under the fabric loops.

It may seem rather simplistic, but taking the time to TRAIN your kitty is also usually quite effective - whether you use "NO" in a firm warning voice, followed by a squirt from a water mister, or whether you choose to discourage his undesirable scratching behavior by leaving the room. BE PATIENT...and BE CONSISTENT.

Keep the front claws neatly trimmed, being careful not to cut in to the "quick" area where the blood flows to the nail. If you have any doubts, have your vet show you how to trim your kitty's nails properly.

There are products out now such as SOFTPAWS©, that can be used (sort of like Lee Press-on nails) to discourage a chronic furniture scratcher. Take the time to try these products before even considering the permanent, irreversible, expensive and mutilating declaw surgery, as they have worked for millions of happy cats and their owners.

Until your cat learns that his scratching needs to be on his post (or posts - you can never have too many, and it's best to have at least one in each room where your cat spends significant time), you may want to try covering his favorite human furniture with double-sided sticky tape, a separate throw, blown up balloons taped to the furniture, aluminum foil, or some similar distraction.

When you have the opportunity, remember to NEVER use your hands and arms in play with your kitten or cat. Responsible breeders start working with their kittens at a very young age, teaching them the difference between toys (meant for play) and human body parts (meant for giving and receiving love). This all plays a big role in the proper development of cat behaviors such as appropriate ways to handle teething, and not turning in to cats that bite or scratch people and/or furniture. With the development of proper cat behaviors such as these, there never becomes a need to even consider the idea of declawing.

 

 

  

CHRISTINE MISSEL

815-257-8039